It’s winter in Morocco, where the season's chill dances on tile floors and seeps through concrete walls of modern apartments, villas, and traditional homes. On these mornings, when the outside is often warmer than the inside, it seems the most daunting task is finding the courage to slide your feet from their cozy hibernation under shelter of layered blankets onto the biting cold of steely floors. The betrayal of a surface once offering a cool reprieve on hot summer days suddenly becomes the impetus for finding that plush wool carpet that has been beckoning since you arrived in Rabat.
It's time for a road trip!
Welcome to the Tuesday Khemisset Carpet Market, or Souk Zerbiya in Darija, where a weekly tapestry of warmth and vibrant culture unfolds. Here, Moroccan zerbiya (carpets) and the resilience of traditional businesswomen converge in a spectacle off the well-worn paths of Morocco's tourist trails. Khemisset is located about 98 kilometers (61 miles) from Rabat. The highway to Meknes will get you there, but “wanderers & travelers” often prefer the rural roads rich with their own warps and wefts of Morocco.
Every Tuesday, the rustic streets of the village come alive in the pre-dawn hours. Women from nearby villages and douars extending into the Atlas Mountains bundle their creations and make their way to the souk in brimming tuk-tuks, horse-drawn carts, and the occasional scooter carrying at least two women and four, or more, vibrant colored carpets depicting intricate patterns and tribal stories. The curious visitor has to be just behind them arriving between 7 AM and 8 AM because by 10 AM the selection wanes, and by noon the women and carpets will be packed and ready for their journey home.
The town is well known as a mecca for exploring and acquiring exquisite, handmade Moroccan carpets that aren't mere commodities; but are stories spun by artisans whose hands have mastered the craft passed down through generations. Here, the pursuit of warmth seamlessly transforms into a celebration of artistry. Moroccan carpets unfold tales of regional heritage and symbolism. Each rug tells a story of contrasting hues and intricate patterns portraying the diversity of Morocco itself.
Not a grand bazaar but a community-driven affair, and at its heart are the women—the economic architects of the village. Shrewd negotiators, yet generous and hospitable hosts, they carry the legacy of their craft with quiet pride. The souk is an all-women affair, a testament to the evolving roles of Moroccan women. As entrepreneurial spirits, they are guardians of a tradition that dances in every fiber. They have developed a home-based entrepreneurial enterprise that has impacted worldwide interior design themes in all areas of housing and businesses. Over the past few decades, it is the women who are taking control and empowering themselves. They have created a well-organized supply chain from their community to the marketplace – and eventually to your bedside!
In Khemisset, an adventure is not just about acquiring a rug; it's an immersion into the authenticity of Morocco's untold stories. The Tuesday market beckons the wanderer to venture beyond the expected, to embrace a town often overshadowed by the grandeur of imperial cities. It's an invitation to explore, to taste, and to connect. Under the Atlas sky, where the cool embrace of dawn is subdued by the warmth of a handwoven masterpiece, the Souk Zerbiya emerges not just as a market but as a journey. It's a story waiting to be told, a legacy unfolding with every step taken and every rug chosen. As the market echoes with laughter and the town whispers its tales, one discovers that, in Khemisset, every thread is a bridge to the heart of Morocco.
As the sun sets leaving a trail of vibrant colors in its wake, one can't help but marvel at the synergy of tradition, entrepreneurship, and warmth underfoot. Beyond the famous souks and lively cities, this hidden gem invites travelers to witness the artistry of Moroccan carpets and the resilience of women shaping the narrative. Embark on an adventure where every thread unfolds a story, and each purchase weaves a connection into the rich tapestry of Moroccan heritage.
Guide to Souk Zerbiya
Early Advantage: Arrive around 7 am for the best selection. This time of the year, this means pre-dawn, but it’s worth the effort. You’ll have first pick of the beauties awaiting you. The early bird truly gets the finest carpets.
Navigate Into the Unknown: Consider national road N6 instead of the highway. Moroccan roads are traveler-friendly, and the scenic route adds an extra layer to your journey. If you choose to be adventurous, it’s best to use this route on your return as it is more navigable in the daylight hours. Tiflet, about halfway between Rabat and Khemisset, is a welcoming town with loads of options for a late lunch.
Pit Stop Perks: Stop at the Aire de Repos exit near Khemisset (highway route) . Take advantage of the facilities, as there are no restrooms at the carpet market.
Finding Your Way: If you get lost, ask for the "Souk Zrabi." Locals are friendly and will guide you in the right direction. The indoor souk’s big, red clay, semi-roofless building is a local landmark.
Comfort is Key: Wear comfortable, closed-toed shoes suitable for navigating dusty – or muddy – market streets. Leave your jewelry at home and remember modest clothing in small villages is appreciated by the locals. Consider a loose scarf if you are comfortable with that. Dress in layers as the early morning may be chilly but it will be warmer as the day goes on.
Cash is King: Bring sufficient cash in 500 and 1000 dirham bundles for smooth negotiations. No ATMs are available, and credit cards aren't accepted. Don’t keep all your cash in one place. Carry a small, close to the body purse with a secure closure. Tuck most of your money separate and secure in a zippered section of your purse or wear a jacket or vest with inside zipper pockets. Use a small “coin purse” to hold no more than enough dirhams to buy one treasured rug. This is not just a security issue – it is also a negotiation tactic. No need to show all your cards!
Numbers Game: A big calculator can aid in price negotiations. Generally, the ladies will understand more than you might expect or that that they revel. The women understand written numbers but be sure of what currency is being used. Some will be talking in Dirhams, Euros – and even old Moroccan currency ("rial") still in circulation. It’s best to discuss pricing between the seller and yourself or a trusted friend. Don’t bring people you don’t know into the discussion.
Economy of Scale: If you are with a group, consider making purchases together with one vendor. Of course, this only applies if the offered selection has enough variety to interest several members of your group. The women sell their carpets to “middlemen” (and women) in bulk who then resell them locally and throughout Morocco. Try to confirm that you are buying your new treasure from a 1st source artisan allowing for added buying power similar to that of a middleman. The women have come to sell as many of their one-of-a-kind pieces as possible. Buying three, four, or more carpets may result in a lower price for the buyer(s).
Cart for Carpets: When you start buying, find a helpful cart-wielding individual to ease the transport of your newfound treasures to your car. Don't forget to tip! Rugs are heavy and the walk back will probably be long. Consider a minimum of 20 Dh.
Stay Vigilant: The market is bustling, so keep an eye on your belongings.
Check out Strands of Spirit - Moroccan Rug Buying Tips From Mushmina, an amazing team supporting Moroccan artisans. Many of you may know Tara, the author of the rug buying blog. She took me on my first magical visit to Khemisset and generously helped me navigate the labyrinth of the village. You can shop the Mushmina collection of artisan products online.
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